Just a quick post while we wait for dinner at the Glacier Park Lodge. Mike, Steve and I summited Uto Peak today! It was hot and a long-ish day (8 hours today, 4 hours yesterday), but well worth it. Feels great to summit, especially after the disappointment of
backing off due to weather two years ago. Hopefully its a good sign for the rest of the trip!
Here's a quick trip report written by Mike:
Uto Peak via Southwest Ridge Descent Northwest Ridge
2927m PD 5.1
Left parking lot at 1400 on July 31, 2010. Arrived at the campground below Sir Donald-Uto at 1800. Got up at 0400 on August 1, 2010 and left camp at 0450. We proceeded to the Uto-Sir Donald col and arrived at 0535. We harness up at the col and started the route unroped. After the first obvious step be brought out the rope for 2 25 meter pitches. After that there was a fair bit of 4th Class climbing before we came to another obvious place that we decided to rope up heading around a corner and up. Throughout the climb there are many rappel stations that can double as anchors if needed. Take note of the rappel stations as they can be critical for the decent. In total we pitched out 5 sections. The top third of the route was mostly 3rd class climbing with a bit of 4th class mixed in near the summit.
For the descent we recommend rappelling the route, however we did not do this we did the standard descent route which is down the Northwest Ridge. For that descent you start off with 2 25m rappels from obvious stations. Do not get sucked down this gully instead after the rappels you scramble down the ridge until you reach another 25 meter rappel station rap this and continue along some ledges to get back onto the ridge. Continue along the ridge once again do not got down the gully right before the Sulzer Towers, go up and over them and then continue down to the Uto-Overlook Col. At this point go down the gulley and return to the campsite.
Pics and more climbing stories to come later.
Ps. we got sucked down the gully and had to climb part way back up and traverse a bunch of ledges to get to the proper descent gully.
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