Wapta Traverse, April
6 – 12, 2013
Wednesday, April 10 – “The Crux”
Day 4:
Balfour Hut to Scott Duncan Hut
10km, 2000 ft El. gain
Gearing up at the Balfour Hut |
Heading to the High Col |
On Day 4 we woke up to snowing, cloudy and
windy weather. The weather had deteriorated from the night before and it looked
as though we would be attempting to traverse the Balfour High Col, the crux of
the route, in a white-out. It was a bit
concerning since this was the same place on the traverse where a man from Abbotsford had sadly perished in a crevasse just a few weeks earlier.
Tom and Mike climbing to the Balfour High Col |
We left the hut in the winter weather at
8am and after a short downhill ski we were at the base of the 2000ft climb. At this point we pulled out the ropes,
harnessed up and split into two rope teams, with Tom, Mike and Deon leading the
way.
Stef leading our rope team to the Balfour High Col |
The crux of the route involves
climbing up a moderately steep slope through a narrow constriction between some
rocks and serracs with overhead hazards from Mt. Balfour, as well as crevasses
to be aware of along the glacier. To
limit our exposure we spread out the two rope teams along the slope and stayed
tied together in case of encountering an unseen crevasse. I was a bit worried that I would be too
slow and tired to move efficiently roped together since I had never skied more than 3 days in a row before, but we
maintained a steady pace and everyone fared quite well through the entire
climb.
Tom and Stef Navigating |
Luckily, Tom and Stef have both skied the
Wapta before and had a strong understanding of the route; that knowledge
combined with their GPS track, Map skills and mountain know-how got our team
safely to the top of the Balfour High Col. Once at the top we regrouped, had a
bit of a break (in the blasting wind and white-out) and came up with a plan to
ski down to the Scott Duncan hut.
Lunch Break |
The ski down the glacier was interesting, to
say the least. We stayed roped together
to stay safe amongst the crevasses, which made for a less than stellar
downhill skiing experience. It was interesting to downhill ski with a rope on; It’s been
a while since I’ve snowplowed my way down an entire ski run. Stef led the charge
in this section by following a GPS track through the whiteout while watching
out for hazards along the way.
Final climb to the hut |
The white-out was intense enough that it was difficult to see the features of the terrain so Stef tied a cord on the end of her ski pole and moved it around in front of her to have an idea of the steepness of the slopes she was encountering. Once we arrived to the vicinity of the hut the
weather broke a bit and we finally had a view of our destination. We worked our way across the last couple km’s
and made the final short climb up to a bench on Mt Daly where the Scott Duncan
Hut awaited.
Scott Duncan Hut on the flanks of Mt Daly |
The Scott Duncan Hut is the smallest of the four huts we stayed in and only sleeps 12, but our group had it to ourselves the
first night, so it was more than adequate. We had some humidity issues in the hut, but with some probe work and hammering on the exhaust fan it seemed to be solved. The door also kept
getting iced up and snowed in, so it was on ongoing battle to shovel snow and
chip away ice to keep the door closing properly.
Scott Duncan Hut |
Once we arrived at the hut we enjoyed some Tea, smoked salmon and
crackers while Tom taught us about Maps and GPS’s and showed us some tips on
how to use them and how he had used them to get us through the white-out that day. That evening after a tasty dinner we entertained ourselves
with a full on Charades battle.
Scott Duncan Hut - Inside |
Thursday, April 11 – “Rest Day”
Day 5:
Scott Duncan Hut, Mt Daly Attempt, Lilliput Col-Balfour Glacier Ski Tour
Climbing Mt Daly in less than stellar conditions |
Type 2 fun at its finest |
The 5th day of the trip was an
extra day we built in for contingency.
We had thought it’d be a good chance to try to climb a nearby peak, such
as Mt Balfour, go for a ski tour or simply have time to rest or wait out
weather if necessary. Tom and Stef got up to check the weather at 6am and it was still socked in so
the attempt to climb Balfour was scrapped and we went back to sleep for another
hour or so.
When we got up shortly after 7am the weather was still
questionable, but we figured we might as well go outside and do something
useful with the day. After a leisurely
breakfast we headed to an area just above the hut on Mt Daly and did a
mini-snow school with Tom where we dug a test pit, discussed the snow and
avalanche conditions and recorded all the info properly in our snow pit
logbooks. A good refresher for the AST-2 course Mike and I took a couple months ago.
Once we were done with our pit we decided
to make and attempt to climb Mt Daly. The weather was still mediocre, snowing fairly
heavily (1.5cm/hour) and the wind was picking up. We boot-packed about ¼ of the way up the snow
slopes and rocks and Jen and I decided that the high winds, heavy snow and no
views were really not a lot of fun and that the summit would not contain many
rewards, so we retreated back to the hut.
As we worked our way down it was shocking how quickly our uptrack had
filled in and we were struggling a bit to find the path back down. Tom ended up
coming down to help us out and guide us back to the hut, which ended up being very
useful as we got onto some slopes that were sluffing and we had to down-climb
some of the areas with stiffer snow and rocks; it was a bit of a relief to be
accompanied by a strong climber and have some guidance in those sections. Stef, Mike and Deon were
going to make a push for the summit, but a few minutes after we turned around,
Stef got hit by a small sluff coming off the rocks above so they
turned back too. In the words of Stef, that experience was definitely “Type 2 Fun”.
We ended up back at the hut just
in time for a warm lunch. As we were making lunch for the day we realized that all those "extra" sandwiches we'd been eating all week maybe weren't "extras" after all.... Looks like we're having trail mix and granola bars for lunch tomorrow; oops! Good thing the last day shouldn't be too long of a ski.
That afternoon the weather cleared so we
re-packed our gear to get out for a tour. We climbed up to the Lilliput Col,
skied a steep line off the backside and accessed the Balfour glacier. After
traversing some flat/low angle sections, we hit a steeper portion of the glacier and
enjoyed a 2000 ft powder run down the Balfour Glacier, some of the best skiing
of the trip! So much fun!
From there we had to climb back up to col and then we
traversed to a steeper face on Lilliput to make some epic powder turns back down onto the
icefield. Another hour or so brought us across the icefields and back to the
hut where we had 5 more people join us for our last night of the trip. It made for a crowded hut, but a highly amusing night of
charades.
Friday, April 12 – “Descent Day”
Day 6:
Scott Duncan Hut to West Louise Lodge (Hwy 1) Trailhead
13km, 4800 ft El. Loss
Traversing Below Mt Niles |
Friday marked the 6th and final
day of our traverse. It was exciting that we had almost accomplished this
amazing journey, but also sad that it was coming to an end and we would be returning to reality. We hit the trail at 7:30am with much lighter
packs (all our food was gone) and made the final climb of the trip up to the
base of Mt Niles.
Enjoying the Views |
The views on this last day were to die for, looking across
the valley at numerous 11,000ft peaks: Victoria, Lefroy, Huber, Hungabee. We
all spread out for the traverse along the slopes of Mt Niles as they are known
avalanche paths and we cruised along quickly with no issues. After 6 days in
the alpine surrounded by nothing but rocks and snow, we skied down some fun runs,
quickly losing elevation, and began to enter the forest.
Lakeside Picnic |
At this point, Stef, Deon and Mike headed out
for a steep tree line while the rest of us went with Tom to find a more
moderate run through the trees. The ski
down through the sparse trees was actually quite fun, which is kind of exciting
as I think it shows a slight progressing in my skiing; I used to despise skiing
anywhere near trees. Once we reached the
bottom of the tree run we started a traverse which weaved through a
creek and through the forest until we emerged at Sherbrook Lake.
Sherbrook Lake |
We met up with Stef’s group at the lake and
enjoyed a picnic in the warm sun before continuing on. Once across the lake we
traversed an undulating trail for a while longer before we began to lose
elevation and made quick work of the ski out, survival style, along the Sherbrook hiking trail. We emerged into the West Louise Lodge Parking
lot at around 12:30 pm, officially marking the end of our 6-day adventure.
We made it! West Louise Lodge Parking lot/Trail head |
Reflection:
The trip across the Wapta Icefields turned
out better than I could have imagined. Until this year I have always had a
bitter-sweet relationship with ski touring, I love being outside and traveling
through the mountains in the winter, but the downhill skiing aspect of always
felt like a “necessary evil”; I never really understood the enjoyment that most
other seemed to get out of it and it always seemed a constant struggle to ski down through deep snow, variable conditions and trees. This season
I spent 40 days on my skis and took some backcountry specific lessons last year, determined to increase my skiing abilities and my fitness
in the backcountry. I feel like the sport of ski touring has
finally started to come together for me, with a couple of yo-yo skiing days
this year that felt like pure bliss and now wrapping up the season with an epic
traverse; I’m finally hooked.
I started the week on the Wapta excited,
but apprehensive about the trip. Would I be able to keep up with
everyone? Am I a strong enough skier to get through the downhills? How about
this 40lb pack I have to carry, on my skis, for 6 days? I haven’t skied with an
overnight pack since the Garibaldi Neve Traverse in 2008, and that was only a
3 day trip! I haven’t ever skied for more than 3 days in row, what was I thinking
signing on for this!?!
Sunrise on Mt Balfour |
The
trip had it its challenges, but it was nothing that couldn’t be handled and thanks
to our wonderful group with all of their positive energy, patients
and comradery, we all managed to help each other out and make it through our individual challenges. Any time we were beyond our comfort levels, Tom or
Stef was right there teaching us new skills and providing guidance. Overall, the trip was better than I could
have ever asked for, with the magnificent atmosphere
and landscape all while traveling with a fabulous group of people and learning
non-stop along the way. It was an excellent way to wrap up the 2012/2013 ski
season and did a great job of improving my self confidence with regards to ski touring
and winter backcountry travel. It opened my eyes to all the epic trips we could
consider in the future; maybe I’ll even consider trying a ski traverse where we
have to sleep in tents..... :)
A big thank you to Tom and Stef for all you
hard work. Everything from organizing the trip (we didn’t exactly
make that simple with the revolving door of participants), to planning food, prepping
meals en-route, to sharing your backcountry skills and knowledge with us by not
only getting us safely across the traverse but by taking us on several exciting
side trips and teaching us new skills along the way. And a shout out to everyone else I spent the
week skiing with, I couldn't have asked for a better group of people - Thanks for the fun trip and I hope to get together again soon on future adventures together!
The Team: Al, Tom, Stef, Jen, Mike, Amber (Deon is taking the Photo) |
Trip Participants:
Tom Wolfe (ACMG Mountain Guide)
Stefanie Falz (Tail Guide)
Amber McMinn
Michael McMinn
Jennifer Coffman
Deon Molloy
Al Tinholt
MCR Report: